Hi Stefan,
Here's another one. I built a Kaui from bare pcb. The adjustment trimmers on the backside have no effect on either oscillator, and the noise circuit is not working at all.
Could I trouble you for the schematic? I have a Calsynth pre-soldered smd module that's working perfectly to compare it to.
Thanks!
Ive built alot of st modular modules with great success but i cant figure out how to mate the two boards of the duck module together. Are both pcbs supposed to have the 3 headers soldered? The bom tells me the 2 pcbs should be screwed together with a 10mm standoff and if that is the case they are to far away from one another to be connected thru the 4 and 5 pin headers. Can someone please point me in the right direction? Thanks in advance
/ Karl Johan
Hi Stefan,
I've sprinted through ~30 SMD populated builds from CalSynth in the last 6 weeks so I've got a few different cleanup tasks, but this is the first:
I built two Alstadens, and both exhibit the exact same vibrato. I can't suss it. I used tempos from Modular Addict in the US (https://modularaddict.com/akaneohm-tempco-3300ppm)
Here's a video showing the behavior on both modules.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/3Ehrnx1nxFNmjukAA
Thanks!
It's the power supply. I put it on two different power supplies and there's no warbling. Time to start removing modules from that circuit (2 rows of 168hp, sigh)
Thanks for the help!
Hey guys,
I was banned by Mouser from buying silicone-based components (diodes, ICs etc) last year as they thought I was an unauthorized reseller. After I explained that I was just an enthusiastic hobby soldering guy they unbanned me and flagged my profile as non-business.
But now I'm affected by the ban of AD (Analog Devices) components for non business customers - Mouser cancelled the respective components from my last order with that exact reason. As I suspect all other vendors (Digikey, TME, etc ) will also not sell me AD components I started to look for alternatives. I was able to find something for almost every AD part, except the LT1931 inverting boost converter.
@Stefan : are you aware of any other inverting boost converter I could use instead of the LT1931? I currently have the PCBs for a workbench on order but the POW! does use the same…
Hey Andreas, My orders for these components from Mouser and Digikey have also been cancelled. They are only availbale as PCB pre-assembly parts (from JLC for exmaple) at the moment. Unfortunately, I’m not aware of any direct alternatives. Addressing these unforeseen market restrictions is on my to-do list for a future revision. Best, Stefan
Hey Karl,
The two boards should be connected through headers J2 and J3. Please use 2.54 mm male and female connectors for both headers: one 4-pin and one 5-pin.
They should also be connected with an M2 screw and a 10 mm standoff.
Solder J2 and J3 on the bottom side of the control board, and on the top side of the main board, where the silkscreen frame around the holes is printed.
It does not matter which side gets the male or female headers. I usually prefer to solder the female headers on the control board and the male headers on the main board.
Please let me know exactly where you are having difficulties assembling the module.
Thanks, Stefan