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Hi Stefan,
I just bought the panel/pcb for the the DII One however on trying to order the components, I'm struggling to find the USB C connector you specify (USBC1-AF-046). It only seems to be via JLCPCB, presumably ony for assembly by them. I can't find it anywhere else online :( Do you think the following would fit? USB4930-00-A
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Got a Midi Thru that won't power when conncted to any USB-C power supplies and cables. I run most of my equipment with USB-C using the Myvolts Silent Alchemist. Plus I have Apple power supplies too. Nothing powers the Midi Thru.
I even had a replacement sent and had the exact same issue. I powered it first with an Apple iphone power supply and nothing. No signs of anything burning out, smell etc.
Genuinely baffled. Any help would be appreciated ✌️
Hi Stefan, this worked a treat, powering from a USB-A port. Thanks so much!! Loving the MID Thru, such a neat solution 🙌
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Just finished building a Krakong and I honestly can't tell if it's working right or how to calibrate it, even after reading the manual a dozen times. Is there any sort of video online showing how to use it and how to properly calibrate it?
I also don't think my right-side serial sequencer is working right. I'm not getting any CV out of the CV OUT of it, and I'm also not getting anything out of the NOISE output.
Also, is there a way to get the oscillators to track 1v/oct?
Thanks!
Stefan,
Thank you for the incredibly detailed reply. I will be checking all that out over the next day or 2. I took photos of my PCB, too, in case you notice any glaring issues, or if anyone else wants to see it. If necessary, I will also make a video of issues as I go through it.
One thing I noticed about the right serial sequencer is that the 4 gate outputs are always in sync, whereas the left side is obviously doing some sort of sequential thing.
I also find that even with the volume turned down on all knobs, it still outputs sound from both oscillators quietly.
Be well!
Quick update: moving the jitter calibrator provided noise at the noise output, but no change to the sequencer. I'll toy with it more and check those solder spots.
Julian
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Hello! I built a Cause & Effect module from Calsynth. It came with all SMD components presoldered. The remaining LEDs, thonkiconns, switch, and pot seemed relatively straightforward to finish assembling,
Every time I power on the module, the two LEDs start pulsating at a regular pace, maybe 100 BPM or so. None of the subsections seem to work properly. The output on the S&H, for instance, doesn’t hold a stored voltage, and it produces a clock-like output at the same pace that the LEDs are always strobing,
I have no idea why it’s acting like this, Any ideas?
I'm not sure which mode is T&H vs S&H. But in both cases, the LEDs continue to flash at their internal rate, not at the rate set by the signal received at HOLD GATE when patched. In one mode, no signal is output at HOLD OUT regardless of whatever is patched at HOLD IN and HOLD GATE. In the other mode, the pulsating continues at the HOLD OUT regardless of whatelse is patched - the is mostly at zero except for the regular pulses.
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My Gritzner module has a low output. PT2399 -> pin 1 = 5.00V U1 -> TL072 pin 4 = 11.3V
U1 -> TL072 pin 8 = 11.3V
U2 -> TL072 pin 4 = 11.19V
U2 -> TL072 pin 8 = 12.5 - 12.6V
U3 -> TL082 pin 4 = 11.3V
U3 -> TL082 pin 8 = ( 1..94V and 21.16V )
Knobs @ 12 O'clock, Switches: Main, Squ, A Green is source signal, Blue is output.
Hi Angus,
thanks for the measurements.
The PT2399 pin 1 reading of 5V looks correct, so the 5V regulator is probably working. The first thing I would like to verify is the op amp power rails, because the values you listed look unusual.
The U3 reading is especially suspicious. Pin 8 should be a stable +12 V. If you get readings like 1.94 V or 21.16 V, please double-check the pin numbering, the orientation of the TL082, and whether the measurement was made against GND or against another pin.
Please also check the PT2399 reference voltage:
pin 1: +5 V
pin 2: about +2.5 V
pins 3 and 4: GND
If pin 2 is not around 2.5 V, the PT2399 or its surrounding parts may be faulty.
Please probe the signal at these points:
1. Input jack tip
2. U1 pin 1
3. MIX pot wiper
4. U1 pin 7
5. OUT jack tip after R15
If the level is already low at U1A pin 1, the problem is before or around the input stage.
If the level is good at U1B pin 7 but low at the output jack, check R15, the OUT jack, and possible shorts to ground.
If the dry signal is fine but the delayed signal is very low, please check the PT2399 and the parts around the PT2399 filter/output section.
Also, please make sure to use an original genuine PT2399 chip. Non-original or fake PT2399s are a common cause of low level, noise, unstable delay behavior, or strange modulation problems. If possible, swap in a known-good original PT2399 and test again.
Best,
Stefan
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Hi everyone,
Just put together a Pedal Pal Stereo. Everything is working as expected, but I am having some issues with the expression pedal connectivity.
I am trying to interface w the expression pedal input on a Meris Mercury X. I checked… exp i/o operates on 0-3.3v and delvers voltage to the ring of the TRS cable. I have a V1 board and all 3 jumpers are in the right place (mine pcb came with a sticker to account for the silkscreen mislabeling).
This is what’s happening:
When I plugin a TRS cable from the expression jack of the pedal it illuminates the CV LED lights when the exp pot is turned cw. When I adjust the exp pot there is no change except at the lower end (ccw) of the dial when the LED dims and pedal responds suddenly. I’ve scaled the expression input in the pedal too…
Dear Stefan, Thank you for your prompt and through reply. Switchign the jumpers did the trick. It appears that the original silkscreen label was correct? Long time time DIYer, but first time pedal user.....I still learing all of the ins and outs. At any rate, Everything now works flawlessly, sounds great. A solid addition to my kit. Thanks again!
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Does anyone know where I can download a gerber file for making a paste stencil for Envelope? Wanting to cut a stencil for the SMT side of the board only.
Hey Jungle,
I’ve created the bottom solder paste Gerber and the board outline Gerber for you.
You can download the files here:
https://www.st-modular.de/file-share/fd10033e-7c78-4b36-8786-efb5183b9310
Let me know if it works for you.
Thanks,
Stefan
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I just finished assembling SPM v1 and everything seems to work ok, but I have no sound on the right output.
The volume knobs work, the spread works, the left out works, but the right is completely silent.
I've attached a picture of my soldering. I've tried reflowing some of the components, but I can't seem to make it work.
Which components specifically would affect the right out?
Thanks,
Tommaso
Hey again ,
is the right output silent for all 3 inputs?
If yes, I would first focus on the common right-output stage: U3, R105, C39, C1 and the OUT_R jack/solder joints. Also check the solder joints around pins 1, 2 and 3 of U3.
Thanks, Stefan
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Hello, I just finished assembling Delay but the volume out is extremely low. I'm using a 100k trimmer resistor for the out gain, but I can't hear any difference when turning the trimmer.
FWIW I have assembled two copies of the module and both have the same issue.
I've resoldered all the dodgy joints, but it didn't help.
Any ideas of what I can try next?
hey thanks for the very detailed reply, unfortunately I smoked the board, so I'll have to get a new one anyway :/
Hi Martin,
I checked the datasdheets more closely.
Unfortunately, the GCT USB4930-00-A will not fit the DII·ONE PCB. It is a top-mounted connector and uses a different footprint and mounting-tab arrangement.
A suitable replacement is the Molex 216990-0001 (Manufacturer number: 2169900001)
The Molex connector is available from distributors such as DigiKey and Mouser. DigiKey also offers it as a cut-tape component, so it should be possible to order a single piece instead of a complete reel.
Please use the Molex 216990-0001 instead of the USB4930-00-A.
Best regards, Stefan