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Klangmaschine does not like Arturia!

I built a Klangmaschine and it works perfectly in my Intelljel test case. However when I put it in any of my 3 Arturia racks only the left channel works. I switched the module forth and back and the behaviour seems to be consistent.Any ideas?

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st-modular
st-modular
3 hours ago

Hey ch,

That's an interesting issue, especially since KLANGMASCHINE works perfectly in your Intellijel case.

Both FM voices use separate but identical microcontrollers, so I'm wondering whether the right-hand oscillator might have trouble starting up with the Arturia power supply.

Could you try a few things?

  1. Test the individual outputs: Is the right FM voice completely silent at its own OUT jack, or is it only missing from the MIX OUT? Please use the same patch cable and mixer input for both tests.

  2. Test KLANGMASCHINE alone: If possible, disconnect the other modules from one of your Arturia racks and see whether the problem persists. This would help rule out a power supply load issue.

  3. Try another power cable: Have you used the same ribbon cable in both cases? If so, please try another one and a different power header in the Arturia rack.

  4. Check the startup behaviour: Does the right oscillator ever start working after switching the Arturia rack off and on again?

KLANGMASCHINE generates its own 5V supply from the +12V rail, so differences in the power supply or its startup behaviour might be relevant.

Let me know what you find, and we can narrow down the cause.

Cheers,

Stefan

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Alstaden Schematic?

Re: Alstaden Build


Hi friends: After what I felt was a pretty straight-forward build (Jacks, Pots, Sliders, Switches), I got magic smoke at CAL_SHAPE_2A during testing. Im not seeing shorts or bridging on immediate inspection and SMD was pre-populated so Im not sure where to go without a schematic.

ty

27 Views
st-modular
st-modular
2 days ago

Hey Brian, The area around CAL_SHAPE_2A definitely looks damaged. Good to know you've already checked the power header for shorts.

CAL_SHAPE_2A is a 10k trimmer connected between +12V and -12V, so it should not get hot under normal operating conditions.

I'd suggest checking a few more things:

  1. Check the resistance across the two outer terminals of CAL_SHAPE_2A. It should be approximately 10k. Compare it with CAL_SHAPE_1A, which uses an identical trimmer arrangement.

  2. I'd also recommend thoroughly cleaning the PCB with isopropyl alcohol and a soft brush to remove any flux residue or solder debris, especially around the power header and CAL_SHAPE_2A. Avoid getting IPA inside the pots, sliders, and trimmers, and let everything dry completely before further testing.

  3. I also noticed something suspicious around D16/D17. It looks like a scratch or possibly an unintended solder connection. Could you inspect that area closely and check for damaged traces or shorts with a multimeter?

Since CAL_SHAPE_2A appears to have suffered significant heat damage, it will most likely need replacing. The PCB underneath should also be inspected for damaged traces or carbonized material. After desoldering, check for shorts again! I might be a connection underneath the trimmer.

Please don't power up the module again until we've identified the cause.

Cheers,

Stefan

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Problem -Problems-problems

Hello,

I have four Boba Fat modules (one is pre-assembled—it works, too) and eight HH modules (one is pre-assembled—that one works as well).


The last two are still in need of repair.

Is there anyone who can repair these modules?

I guess I’m just not cut out for this (even though I have a background in electrical engineering/IT).


Please let me know—thanks in advance!

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Help with Hanz

I am having some weird functionality with Hanz, lfo and CV led are default on, lfo led blinks at max rate and the resonance pot affects the rate. The cutoff pot does nothing. I have reflowed everything and I am still having issues. Is there a schematic for the module so I could do some debugging?

35 Views
Daniel Eads
Daniel Eads
6 days ago

I actually figured out the issue. The schottky diode on the negative voltage rail was not fully soldered. Fixed that and now everything works perfectly. Weird things happen when you don't have negative voltage

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Envoltura - Bleeding sound

With the adjusters on the back what is the correct way to turn the trim pots to stop the bleeding of sound in a VCF. The inverted state works well... also what is a recommended screwdriver to use for this part of calibration that wasn't done so I botched the back so its going to have to be repaired. Maybe the direction and tool should be as a note in the manual.

71 Views

Hey Anthony, There is no fixed turning direction. It depends on the current offset. The goal is to get the output as close to 0V as possible when the envelope is inactive.

Use a multimeter to measure the OUT voltage and carefully turn the corresponding trimmer in whichever direction brings it closer to 0V.

I recommend a small, non-conductive flat-head trimmer screwdriver to avoid damaging the trimmer or PCB. Cheers,

Stefan

Edited

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jeremy.flowerjeremy.flower
jeremy.flower

BOM for discontinued module - Knead

Hello, all.


I never got around to building my Knead EQ/Mixer, and did not save the BOM for while it was still available. Does anyone have a copy of it? If you have the expander as well, that would be lovely.


thanks!

jf

127 Views

Hey Jeremy,

That’s quite an old one, so some of the links and components may be outdated, discontinued, or no longer in stock.

Cheers,

Stefan

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LM 398 amp

Hi, I'm busy assembling all the parts for a Cause and Effect S&H module and the BOM calls for an SMD LM398 amp with 8 pins. Unfortunately the correct component doesn't seem to be available in the UK. I can only get the through hole version with long pins.


Does anyone know of a source for these components or if it's possible to use the long pin version at all?


Rich.

82 Views

Hi Rich,


the part you need is LF398S8#PBF, the 8-pin SOIC version. Farnell UK, RS Components and DigiKey UK all list this part, although current stock can change.

Best,

Stefan

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Duck no audio pass through



hey there, I`ve built a Duck, checked for cold joints, right orientated components and so on. But no matter what I try I cannot get audio out of this module.. the yellow led is constently on. red led works with gates and settings.


Any idea, what do to check first?

135 Views

Hey Nys, I would start with the VCA/main board:


  • Reflow suspicious solder joints, start with the ICs.

  • Check the board connections with the headers

  • Check the supply rails: +12 V / -12 V at TL074 and LM13700 (U2), and the +10 V reference around LM4040 (IC6) and U1 (Pin 1).

  • With no audio connected, measure VCA_OUT DC (lower pad of R31) voltage. It should be close to 0 V. If it is strongly positive, negative or near a rail, check U1B, R31, R32 and LM13700 (U2), especialy for solder bridges or bad joints.

  • Apply a gate and measure CV_TO_VCA (left pad of R15). The voltage should clearly change with the envelope. If it does, continue through U1C → Q2 → LM13700 pin 1. This is the VCA control-current path.


The constant yellow LED is especially interesting because its driver monitors VCA_OUT. So I would measure the DC voltage at VCA_OUT first. If you send me that voltage plus the voltage at CV_TO_VCA with and without a gate, we can narrow it down quickly. Thanks,

Stefan

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LFOT schematic

Hi Stefan,


Could I trouble you for the schematic for LFOT? I have three pcb sets. Built the first one and it's all good except the PWM control doesn't work via pot or CV.


Many thanks


131 Views

Thank you for the schematic. Instanteously realized that I fundamentally misunderstood the PW jack is an output not a CV input, and the Pulse Width pot affects that output.


Did not RTFM to see it has three outputs. ugh.


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