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Hey all,
i'm having problems with my Alstaden build.
No Output on Wave A, Pulse and Sine.
Wave B, Sub, OUT EQ, Pitch and Finetune work perfectly fine.
First time i soldered Q1 wrong orientation. Maybe that fried another IC?
Any help or schematics greatly appreciated!
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Hello all, I would like to know the following on the 2xLFO: 1) what are the audio RATES of the lfos? At the very least what's the slowest rate? 2) where could I obtain this module assembled? It doesn't seem to exist anywhere. Thanks so much.
Hey Kevin, The 2xLFO covers a very wide frequency range in two range modes:
In the slow range it goes down to about 0.0024 Hz, which is roughly one cycle every seven minutes, and it reaches about 0.05 Hz at the fastest setting in that range.
With the fast range engaged, the LFO runs from roughly 1.2 Hz up to about 24.5 Hz, which means it can reach low audio-rate modulation.
The output amplitude is typically around 8–10 V peak-to-peak.
Currently the module is only availbale as DIY PCB & Panel set.
Thanks,
Stefan
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I just bought an assembled Hans filter from Pusherman. The resonance pot has no effect on the output sound except when higher than 3:00, and then only slightly. I wonder if the module was built with a bad or incorrect resistor in the feedback loop.
I can email a video of it in operation if necessary; along with a spectrogram.
Board v1.1. The solder joints all look good under a magnifying glass.
How should I proceed with warrantee repair? Is there anything I can test at home?
Hey Shak,
What you’re experiencing is actually the expected behavior of the filter. The resonance begins to come in very subtly around the 12 o’clock position, becomes more pronounced by 3 o’clock, and may get a little unstable beyond that point. This is due to some necessary design compromises in order to keep the circuitry simple and still fit a stereo filter into such a compact HP format.
If you’d like the resonance to take effect earlier, you can reduce the values of resistors R19 and R31. Just keep in mind that this will also make the circuit less stable (what I did not find desirable). Another option is to replace the resonance stereo potentiometer with a linear type, which can give a different feel to the response.
Thanks,
Stefan
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Hi there!
I have just finished assembling the ST modular Duck. However, it is not working. LEDs are not on and there is no signal passed through. Would it be possible to receive a schematic so I can probe where it is going wrong?
D2 was the wrong way around !
I need some reading glasses for properly seeing the lines on those diodes… thanks!
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The slide pots for Shikensa (PTL30-15O0-104B2) have 4 pins on one end, but the PCB only has 3 holes for mounting that end. The datasheet has the "extra" pin marked "L" but it doesn't say what it does.
Do I just clip the "extra" pin?
Hey Thom,
Yes, just clip it off, it’s not needed and the soldering hole was left out to save space for traces on the PCB. Thanks,
Stefan
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Hi!
I'm putting together an order for Euphoria components and while going through the BOM I found that capacitors C149 and C150 in the Envelope BOM have a specified value of 10uF but the Mouser link points to a 2.2uF capacitor. The the value or link to be trusted?
Hi Christian,
Thanks for pointing this out! It was indeed a typo. The correct value is 10uF, and I’ve updated the BOM accordingly.
Have a nice weekend! 🌞
Stefan
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I have finished soldering the long anna together and everything works. but the leds show the positive voltage at the bottom and the negative at the top. it would make more sense for the positive voltage to be shown by the upper leds. where is the error? or should it be like this? thanks for your help
gunter
Hey Gunter,
All LEDs labeled LED_P_XX are positioned at the top and indicate positive voltages. Correspondingly, all LEDs labeled LED_N_XX are at the bottom and indicate negative voltages.
Could you please double-check the orientation of the LEDs in your build? If the anode and cathode are reversed, the polarity indication will also be reversed. Thanks, Stefan
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mine hasn't arrived yet and I already found myself wanting a mkII version! well, I was thinking about improving the stereo experience by having attenueverters instead of attenuators at the CTRL inputs, so to have the possibility to use the lfo to change subtly the cutoff in opposite directions for the two channels.
what do you think? Is this already something achievable by a mod?
Hey Riccio, That’s a great idea! I might just add an inverted normalization between the two inputs to make it happen. It’s definitely on the list for a future revision. 🙂
That said, it wouldn’t be easy to implement as a simple mod.
Thanks,
Stefan
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I built a Hans (pre-populated from Calsynth) everything works but noticed it's half the volume of other modules. Is there a resistor value I can change to boost? Thanks!
Hey Kelly, The design is known for not having the highest output level., but halving the volume seems a bit extreme.
That said, you can reduce the values of R17 and R29 to increase the gain at both outputs.
Thanks,
Stefan
Hey Alex, You´ve got mail! 😉 The outputs you desxcribed are directly connected to Q1, so it might be a good idea to solder a new DMMT3904, also recheck U6! Cheers, Stefan